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We moved on to a French apple cake recipe from Dorie Greenspan made with a simple flour-egg-rum-melted butter affair and four large apples peeled and cut into ½-inch chunks. This was a better batter—and less of it, which produced a dessert that was more custardy than cakelike.
A skim coat of butter in the pan is needed for cooking the apples. And don’t slice the cake until it has fully cooled; if it is at all warm, the texture at the center will be too soft. Heat the oven to 375ºF with a rack in the middle position. Coat a 9-inch springform pan with butter, dust evenly with flour, then tap out the excess.
Pour into a small heatproof bowl without scraping out the skillet. Stir the allspice into the butter and set aside. Add all of the apples, 2 tablespoons of the sugar and the salt to the still-hot skillet and set over medium-high.
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